Everything begins with the master tailors using a tape measure to tale his customer´s measurements: a dozen or so for a jacket, five for a pair of pants, all of them noted on a card. “You need to know how to observe a person: his shape, his postures and his defects”. “You ned to consider the overall impression rather that the individual elements.” Together, they choose a model: two- or three- piece suit, single or double breasted, tuxedo or overcoat. Whether formal or more casual, each piece leads to another. The journey may take in the shirt cabinet, with its trays of collars, cuffs and buttons arranged on shelves.
Once the cut has been chosen, it is time to select the fabric. Special attention is paid to the finer details of comfort: inside pockets for pens and telephones; silk and cashmere linings with creases and pleats that allow total freedom of movement.
Excellence reigns over each step of the process, including the finishing touches: embroidered, buttonholes, scalloped loops, braided seams, the color of the lining – matching tones or an unusual contrast “to create surprise and offset the classic style of a jacket” – the shade of the facings of the collar and lapels, interior buttons in mother of pearl or corozco, a tropical wood. For ultimate in refinement, they are dyed to match the lining. “The idea is to play withe the rules, tu put a new twit on them and have fun.” The las word in sophistication.
Using the data recorded on the card, The tailors produces a paper pattern. His movements are precies, methodical – almost “ritualesque”. Using a ruler, he marks out his directions for pleats, cut-outs and pockets using an intricate system of calculations and geometry. This pattern is then transferred to the fabric using chalk as sharp as a razor and an oddly shaped template known as a French curve.
It takes around 10 hours to produce a pair of pants and seventy hours for a jacket. Other requirements include years of experience and exceptional creativity and technique. For connoisseurs, the end result is unmistakable.